Wiring stage 2
Before the diff and prop shaft can be fitted we need to make sure the wiring is secured so it cannot interfere with them. So to start with I had a bacon sandwich. Now onto the car starting at the front we checked both sides had the same amount space going to the headlights. As usual we masked where we wanted to drill, centre punched a hole with a hammer then applied the rivets and p-clips with sealant. This is how the front turned out.
This is the wiring in the tunnel. We left some slack to allow for the handbrake to be fitted easily.
At the front the rear gets a little more complicated. We need to avoid the diff, suspension and wishbones, brake lines and the fuel tank. So we know what room we had we fitted the tank and diff.
This is the wiring comming out of the tunnel
Here is the wiring that splits behing the diff to go the rear right and left lighs.
Finally from the split the wiring ends up at the rear of the chassis.
Having got the diff in place a few times we knew this job wasn't going to be easy. The reason being is that the diff is very heavy for its relative small size and the bolts don't allign. For starters we checked we could remove the drain plug using a 10mm hex socket and then we left it slighlty loose for when we fill it with oil. The diff mounting with the holts for bolts is made of thick steel taking a long time to file these obscured holes out. For the fitting, the diff went in from underneath with the nose pointing into the tunnel first. Once in position we held the diff roughly in place with two pieces of rope. We then fitted the shortened 2xm10 (ht8.8)top 19mm head bolts first. Then with a bit of struggling we got the bottom standard length m10's in.
We fitted the diff first without nylocs and washers so we could get it in easily and make sure it was central to the prop. Now we can take one bolt out at a time and fit the nyloc nut and the correct amount of spacers. Well that sounds easy doesn't it, as we found it definetly wasn't. Getting nylocs and washers wedged in when the other side had already been tightened was really diff-icult, excuse the punn. Three bolts went in ok but the last one was too tight for 2 washers and too loose for 1 so we had to file the diff marginally. Then we had to pull tight on the ropes to get it all to allign correctly. We used grease to hold the spacers to the diff and nut. Once in we loctite'd the threads and then torqued the bolts up evenly to 60 lb/ft and marked the bolts to chassis points with red paint to check they maintain their position. All we need now is some satin black paint to cover up the little chips from fitting and where the web was removed.
Here's another picture of the diff looking at the back of the chassis with the fuel tank fitted.